Background on RMI-25

RMI-25 is NOT a flush. It will clean a system of antifreeze "slime", remove and keep in suspension other foreign matter such as rust, but it will not dissolve hardened alkaline deposits. There are a couple of industrial-type products that will, but probably will remove the solder from the joints as well. If your core is plugged, has deposits on tube ends, is over 3 years old with a diet of antifreeze, replace it. Then the use of RMI-25 on an ongoing basis will keep your system clean, lubricated and corrosion-free. It is not a cure-all for a mechanical problem.

Instructions for application?

What I usually do is run the RMI in a system for a few hundred miles.

If it is an old radiator, drain a little fluid so you can see the condition of the core tubes as compared to when you installed it. When they are fairly clean, drain and flush the system again.

With a new radiator, do the same thing because the block and rest of of the system that you cannot see is being cleaned as well. The RMI takes the rust and contaminates and holds them in solution indefinitely. I prefer to dump it and refill with a fresh solution.

A clean system should go for a year or more with only another bottle after 6 months.

How much in Radiator?

An 8 oz. bottle will treat up to 5 gallons, or any normal car/truck.

Should I put in new coolant as well?

The best procedure is to use "coolant" or antifreeze with RMI-25 for the months when it is required to protect from freezing. Then flush and refill with purified water and RMI. The "new" antifreeze contains alot of silicates which form very hard deposits in the cooling system. It is important to run a supplemental additive such as RMI to protect against "silicate dropout".

How long does it last?

A treatment every 6 months would be sufficient on a "clean" system. Should it be drained after about a week,, when everything has been cleaned, and replaced with new coolant? Run it for a month or 2 initially, then flush and refill with fresh.

Final Comments:

Before I found out about RMI, it was necessary to use 2 or 3 additives to obtain the same results for ALL necessary protection that it provides. As has been stated before, water is a more efficient cooling medium than the antifreeze mixture. Antifreeze has a very minimal additive package and it is diminished quickly by heat. This is why I recommend it be dumped every spring [in areas that must use it] and always provide an additive supplement such as RMI-25 to protect when using antifreeze.

After receiving many direct posts from list members such as , thought that a summary of cooling techniques/products that I have used based upon experience on many fleets and personal vehicles over many years.

I am only passing on information of what has worked very successfully for me and the products are made available on a convenience to members.

There may be other products as good, or even better, but from a performance and cost standpoint, these are the ones that I prefer and use.

I have been "fighting" the T-R cooling battle since my '87 was only months old and the system was full of antifreeze crud. Been down the 4-row and 4-row staggered core, aluminum rads and more additives than you care to hear about.

The core that I use in T-R's and others is a 3-row high efficiency/high fin count that has larger tubes than stock. This core is 2" thick compared to 1-9/16" stock, or the Modine X-2000, which is a stock replacement. The company that makes these cores is based in So. Cal. and ONLY sells to radiator shops. I have made an arrangement with this shop to provide me with cores only.

The following info is obtained from the factory and may help explain how and why RMI works:

"A liquid additive, consisting of a PH stabilizer for alkaline/acid balance, an oxygen scavenger to prevent cavitation erosion, and pitting: a lubricator for all component parts such as seals, thermostats, water pumps, hoses, heater valves,, and controls. The cleaning action is brought about by a unique physical-chemical property acting on rust, corrosion and mineral deposits.

This action breaks down the corrosive deposits into molecular sizes, deforming their shape: making it impossible to recombine and form solids, leaving them in a soft, floating, harmless condition, which also prevents blockage of the system.

The system, depending on the condition, is about 90% clean in 10 days to 2 weeks of normal driving. This cleaning action is continuous and penetrates scale, corrosion and rust down to the clean metal, leaving an organic barrier on cleaned metal surfaces preventing further oxygen combination.

Water conditioning is accomplished by a surficant agent improving heat transfer making water a more efficient cooling medium!"

There are many vehicles running around the area with the above combinations that could not prior to being done. If it works here, should work anywhere.